LAIRAI JATRA, Shirigao, Bicholim Goa.

LAIRAI JATRA at SHIRIGAO, BICHOLIM GOA.

In the village of Shirgao in Bicholim taluka lies the temple of Goddess Lairai.  

This is a small hamlet about 25 or so kilometres away from Panjim. It is a mining area and the tall mountains have disappeared in the unfettered greed. The whole area wears a cover of oxidised red dust on every visible surface. Even the plants, road side mango trees and the bushes  has red dust on the leaves

The deity Lairai, amidst  mining area is famous all over Goa and has itsdevotees spread across Sindhudurg in Maharashtra  as well as Belgaum in Karnataka. It is estimated that every  year thousands of devotees attend annual feast of deity to witness the walking of 'dhond' barefooted through the sacred fire known as Homkunda. 

Shirgavchi Jatra, called in local vernacular is an annual event held around April May depending upon  Shudh Panchami day of Vaishakh Hindu calendar month. The jatra brings joy and vigor to the villagers. The whole village of Shirgaon wears a new look. The houses are painted, decorated with lights, done up mandaps in front of every house and Kamanis erected at the entrance of Shirgaon village and at the temple place. The fair is another feature of this Jatra. The shops, stalls are erected on either sides of the road leading to Temple. The flower sellers, soft drink restaurants, toys shops, sweet shops etc make a brisk business on the Jatra day.

The original temple of Lairai is situated at Mudder. While proceeding to Shirgao from Assonora, one will find this temple on the small hillock to the left. This deity is symbolic in the form of an ant-hill. A mud road leads to the temple and passes through iron ore dumps and mines along the way.

On Shudh Panchami day, The Jatra  begins with various religious rituals in the temple. The devotees visit the place in the morning to take darshan of Lairai, offer flowers and prayers for seeking her blessings.

In addition to the devotees, Lairai  has its own followers and worshippers, who walk,  bare foot,  on the burning coals. This community of Dhonds who go through the ritual have to observe abstinence for stipulated number of days with ritual baths etc. These Dhonds attired in traditional costumes and carrying a coloured piece of cloth on their back, besides a stick of entwined cane (bethkathi) in their hands is the integral part of the Jatra.  The Vratasth dhonds from different places all over Goa,  Konkan, Belgaum, reach Shirgaon by afternoon. They take a dip in the holy lake at Shirgaon. They then visit the temple and  take out five pradakshinas around the temple. 

The firewood is piled in a big heap under a sacred Peepal tree. The  dhonds perform pooja of the sacred wood and then return to the lake for a bath. They take darshan of Lairai at Mudderh and then follow other religious traditions. 

In the night, The priest carrying KOLOS ignite fire into the huge pyre of the wood under the Peepal and the pyre starts burning. After a few hours the burning charcoal is spread on the ground and the dhonds walk or run over the red hot coals barefoot. The devotees believe that this act is possible only by the grace and divine blessings of goddess Lairai. This Agnidivya is performed by dhonds walking through burning coals chanting Har  har Mahadev, Shri Lairai Mata ki Jai.

The main Jatra is followed by 4-day rituals and festivities are locally called kaulotsav. During kaulotsav, the kalash of the deity is taken out from the temple in a procession for a house-to-house visit. The villagers perform pooja and seek the deity's blessings.

Ramchandra Mandrekar, a resident of Shirigao and a Dhond says, "More than 25,000 dhonds take part in the jatra. Every year over and above 2,000 devotees are added." There are around two dozen persons belonging to various castes and sub-castes who actively participate in the fair and contribute to its success. They are called as Chowgule and they observe fast for nine days. It is estimated that almost 100,000 devotees descent upon this small hamlet of Shirigao on this single day.  "I have faith in Lairai deity and I have been a Dhond since my childhood. I derive spiritual strength and peace of mind. I strictly follow vegetarian diet for a month." he concludes.

Legend has that Lairai of Shirgao is the sister of Mahamaya of Maye, Kelbai of Mulgao, Morjai of Morji, Mirabai or Our Lady of Milagres of Mapusa, Shitalai of Mayem and Ajadipa from Anjadiv island. Her lone brother is Khetoba from Vaiganem.    

It is believed that the goddess is fond of mogriche kale (buds of the fragrant mogra) devotees tend to offer these flowers . Many relatives and near dear ones  of Dhonds, buy these garlands and put them around the necks of the Dhonds, prior to Agnidivya. One will find several vendors selling the rather uncommon white beauties near the temple. 

in Goa, Godess  Lairai  is one of the most popular deities among the farmers and working class, besides those involved in traditional occupations. It is believed to be the incarnation of goddess Parvati, the consort of Shiva. 

This year,  the famous Jatra is scheduled on Sunday, the 4th May, 2014.

Visitors to  Goa, can stay at our apartment named after BICHOLIM, at Urba Luxury Service Apartments. We can arrange a transport and guide as well.